‘Privileges … which, incidentally, have always been misinterpreted …’

On 7 July 1674, the port of Messina, in the north-eastern corner of Sicily, rebelled against Spanish rule. The leaders of the revolt were the wealthy burghers of the city, members of the senatorial class, families whose names were inscribed in the exclusive register of nobility kept in the city archives, oligarchs proud of their right to wear hats in the presence of the viceroy. Their cause was essentially reactionary: to protect their ancient privileges against the perceived liberalism of the Spanish viceroy. They were encouraged and assisted by Louis XIV of France, who appointed the brother of his mistress to be governor of Sicily. To the rebels' dismay, the French governor was careless of their rights, and contemptuous of their petty provincialism. His officers seduced their wives, while his troops cut down the mulberry trees which fed the silk-worms from which the rebels had spun their wealth. The port remained closed, trade and commerce ceased, and the rebellion soon threatened to destroy the prosperity of its leaders. When Louis withdrew his support, the senatorial families fled the island with as much money and silk as they could carry, some to exile in Tunis and Constantinople. On 15 March 1678, Spanish troops entered the city, and the rebellion was over.

The new Spanish viceroy, appointed in 1679, conceived a terrible revenge against the citizens of Messina. The town hall was razed to the ground, and its site ploughed and sowed with salt. In its place was set an equestrian statue, by Giacomo Serpotta, of King Carlo II trampling the hydra of rebellion.