Skip to main content Accessibility help

We use cookies to distinguish you from other users and to provide you with a better experience on our websites. Close this message to accept cookies or find out how to manage your cookie settings.

Close cookie message
×
Hostname: page-component-7479d7b7d-68ccn Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-07-11T08:23:45.511Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Part IV - Fashion, Modernism, and Modernity

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  04 August 2023

Edited by
Christopher Breward ,
Beverly Lemire  and
Giorgio Riello
Christopher Breward
Affiliation:
National Museums Scotland
Beverly Lemire
Affiliation:
University of Alberta
Giorgio Riello
Affiliation:
European University Institute, Florence
Get access

Summary

A summary is not available for this content so a preview has been provided. Please use the Get access link above for information on how to access this content.
Image of the first page of this content. For PDF version, please use the ‘Save PDF’ preceeding this image.'
Type
Chapter
Information
The Cambridge Global History of Fashion
From the Nineteenth Century to the Present
 , pp. 735 - 1020
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication year: 2023

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Select Bibliography

Amann, Elizabeth, Dandyism in the Age of Revolution: The Art of the Cut (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2015).Google Scholar
Breward, Christopher, The Hidden Consumer: Masculinities, Fashion and City Life, 1860–1914 (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1999).Google Scholar
Breward, Christopher, The Suit: Form, Function & Style (London: Reaktion Books, 2016).Google Scholar
Chenoune, Farid, A History of Men’s Fashion (Paris: Flammarion, 1993).Google Scholar
Cole, Sean and Lambert, Miles, Dandy Style: 250 Years of British Men’s Fashion (New Haven and London: Manchester Art Gallery and Yale University Press, 2021).Google Scholar
Harvey, John, Men in Black (London: Reaktion Books, 1995).Google Scholar
Irwin, Kate and Brewer, Laurie Anne, Artist, Rebel, Dandy (New Haven and London: Yale University Press and Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design, 2013).Google Scholar
Kuchta, David, The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850 (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2002).Google Scholar
McNeil, Peter and Karaminas, Vicki (eds.), The Men’s Fashion Reader (Oxford: Berg, 2009).Google Scholar
Miller, Monica L., Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Dandyism (Durham, NC and London: Duke University Press, 2009).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Moers, Ellen, The Dandy: Brummell to Beerbohm (New York: Viking, 1960).Google Scholar
Potvin, John, Deco Dandy: Designing Masculinity in 1920s Paris (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2020).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Shannon, Brent, The Cut of His Coat: Men, Dress, and Consumer Culture in Britain, 1860–1914 (Athens: Ohio University Press, 2006).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Ugolini, Laura, Men and Menswear: Sartorial Consumption in Britain 1880–1939 (Aldershot: Ashgate Publishing, 2007).Google Scholar
Zakim, Michael, Ready-Made Democracy: A History of Men’s Dress in the American Republic, 1760–1860 (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2003).Google Scholar

Select Bibliography

Davis, Angela, Women, Race & Class (New York: Vintage, 1983).Google Scholar
Frederici, Silvia, Revolution at Point Zero: Housework, Reproduction, and Feminist Struggle (Oakland, CA: PM Press, 2020 [2012]).Google Scholar
Kemper, Klaus, ‘Marx, Wertkritik and the Illusions of State, Politics and Law’ (3 March 2020). https://verfassungsblog.de/marx-wertkritik-and-the-illusions-of-state-politics-and-law/ (accessed 25 April 2023).Google Scholar
Lazzarato, Maurizio, Boutang, Yann Moulier, Negri, Antonio, and Santilli, Giorgio, Des Entreprises pas comme les autres: Benetton en Italie, Le Sentier à Paris (Paris: Publisud, 1993).Google Scholar
Lefebvre, Henri, Introduction to Modernity: Twelve Preludes, September 1959–May 1961 (London: Verso, 1995).Google Scholar
Lehmann, Ulrich, Fashion and Materialism (Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 2018).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Luxemburg, Rosa, The Accumulation of Capital (London: Routledge & Kegan Paul, 1951 [1913]).Google Scholar
MacKinnon, Catharine A., ‘Feminism, Marxism, Method, and the State: An Agenda for Theory’, Signs: Journal of Women in Culture and Society, 7/3 (Spring 1982), 515–44.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Marx, Karl, Economic and Philosophic Manuscripts of 1844, in Marx, Karl and Engels, Friedrich, Collected Works, vol. iii (London: Lawrence & Wishart, 1975).Google Scholar
Marx, Karl, Grundrisse: Foundations of the Critique of Political Economy (Rough Draft) (London: Allen Lane, 1973 [1857–8]).Google Scholar
Negri, Antonio, Revolution Retrieved: Writings on Marx, Keynes, Capitalist Crisis and New Social Subjects (1967–83) (London: Red Notes, 1988).Google Scholar
Spivak, Gayatri Chakravorty, ‘Scattered Speculations on the Question of Value’, Diacritics, 15/4 (Marx after Derrida) (Winter 1985), 83–93.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Tronti, Mario, Operai e Capitale (Turin: Einaudi, 1966).Google Scholar
Vaneigem, Raoul, The Revolution of Everyday Life: 1963–1965 [1967]. https://theanarchistlibrary.org/library/raoul-vaneigem-the-revolution-of-everyday-lifepdf (accessed 25 April 2023).Google Scholar
Virno, Paolo and Hardt, Michael (eds.), Radical Thought in Italy: A Potential Politics (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 1996).Google Scholar

Select Bibliography

Alvarez, Luis, The Power of the Zoot: Youth Culture and Resistance during World War II (Berkeley: University of California Press: 2009).Google Scholar
Bellanta, Melissa, Larrikins: A History (Brisbane: University of Queensland Press, 2012).Google Scholar
Bellanta, Melissa and Piper, Alana, ‘Looking Flash: Disreputable Women’s Dress and “Modernity”, 1870–1910’, History Workshop Journal, 78 (2014), 58–81.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Davies, Andrew, The Gangs of Manchester: The Story of the Scuttlers, Britain’s First Youth Cult (Preston: Milo Books, 2009).Google Scholar
España-Maram, Linda, Creating Masculinity in Los Angeles’ Little Manila: Working-Class Filipinos and Popular Culture, 1920s–1950s (New York: Columbia University Press, 2006).Google Scholar
Khor, Denise, ‘“Filipinos are the Dandies of the Foreign Colonies”: Race, Labor Struggles, and the Transpacific Routes of Hollywood and Philippine Films, 1924–1948’, Pacific Historical Review, 81 (2012), 371–403.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Lemire, Beverly, ‘A Question of Trousers: Seafarers, Masculinity and Empire in the Shaping of British Male Dress, c. 1600–1800’, Cultural and Social History, 15/3 (2016), 1–22.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Lemire, Beverly, Global Trade and the Transformation of Consumer Cultures: The Material World Remade, c. 1500–1820 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2018).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Lemire, Beverly, ‘“Men of the World”: British Mariners, Consumer Practice, and Material Culture in an Era of Global Trade, c. 1660–1800’, Journal of British Studies, 54 (2015), 288–319.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Pearson, Geoffrey, Hooligan: A History of Respectable Fears (Basingstoke: Macmillan, 1983).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Peiss, Kathy, Zoot Suit: The Enigmatic Career of an Extreme Style (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2011).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Perrot, Michelle, ‘Dans le Paris de la Belle Epoque. Les “Apaches”, Premieres Bandes de Jeunes’, ERES: la lettre de l’enfance et de l’adolescence, 67 (2007), 71–8.Google Scholar
Roces, Mina, ‘“These Guys Came Out Looking Like Movie Actors”: Filipino Dress and Consumer Practices in the United States, 1920s–1930s’, Pacific Historical Review, 85 (2016), 532–76.CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Select Bibliography

Anjo, Hissako and Finnane, Antonia, ‘Tailoring in China and Japan: Cultural Transfer and Cutting Techniques in the Early Twentieth Century’, in Lemire, Beverly and Riello, Giorgio (eds.), Dressing Global Bodies: The Political Power of Dress in World History (Abingdon: Routledge, 2020), 263–88.Google Scholar
Xiangyang, Bian and Lanlan, Yan, ‘Shanghai Qipao, 1925–1949’, in Breward, Christopher and MacDonald, Juliette (eds.), Styling Shanghai (London: Bloomsbury, 2020), 67–86.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Chang, Eileen [Zhang Ailing], ‘A Chronicle of Changing Clothes’, trans. Jones, Andrew E., positions: east asia cultures critique, 11/2 (Fall 2003), 427–41.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Chen, Tina Mai, ‘Dressing for the Party: Clothing, Citizenship, and Gender-Formation in Mao’s China’, Fashion Theory, 1/3 (2001), 333–60.Google Scholar
Clark, Hazel, ‘Chinese Fashion Designers: Becoming International’, in Ling, Wessie and Reinach, Simona Segre (eds.), Fashion in Multiple Chinas: Chinese Styles in the Transglobal Landscape (London: I. B. Tauris, 2018), 199–220.Google Scholar
Finnane, Antonia, Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, History, Nation (New York: Columbia University Press, 2008).Google Scholar
Harrison, Henrietta, The Making of the Republican Citizen: Political Ceremonies and Symbols in China 1911–1929 (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 2000).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Ingleton, Sally, Mao’s New Suit (Singing Nomad Productions, 1999).Google Scholar
Kwong, Luke S. K., ‘The Rise of the Linear Perspective on History and Time in Late Qing China c. 1860–1911’, Past & Present, 173 (November 2001), 157–90.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Lee, S. Heijin, Moon, Christina H., and Nguyen Tu, Thuy Linh (eds.), Fashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia (New York: New York University Press, 2019).Google Scholar
Qian, Kun, Imperial-Time-Order: Literature, Intellectual History, and China’s Road to Empire (Leiden: Brill, 2015).Google Scholar
Tsui, Christine, China Fashion: Conversations with Designers (Oxford: Berg Publishers, 2009).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Wu, Juanjuan, Chinese Fashion from Mao to Now (Oxford: Berg, 2009).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Yang, Chia-ling, ‘Image Makers of Fashionable Shanghai, 1910–1930’, in Breward, Christopher and MacDonald, Juliette (eds.), Styling Shanghai (London: Bloomsbury, 2020), 147–80.Google Scholar
Zhao, Jianhua, The Chinese Fashion Industry: An Ethnographic Approach (London: Bloomsbury, 2013).CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Select Bibliography

Bartlett, Djurdja, FashionEast: The Spectre That Haunted Socialism (Cambridge, MA: MIT Press, 2010).Google Scholar
Bartlett, Djurdja, ‘Stars on Screen and Red Carpet’, in Beumers, Birgit (ed.), A Companion to Russian Cinema (Oxford: Wiley-Blackwell, 2016), 337–63.Google Scholar
Betts, Paul, ‘The Twilight of the Idols: East German Memory and Material Culture’, Journal of Modern History, 72/3 (2000), 731–65.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Gerasimova, E. and Chuikina, S., ‘Obshchestvo remonta’ [The Repair Society], NZ, 34 (2004, electronic version).Google Scholar
Gronow, Jukka and Zhuravlev, Sergey, Fashion Meets Socialism: Fashion Industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War (Helsinki: SKS [Studia Fennica Historica], 2016).Google Scholar
Hankiss, Elemér, East European Alternatives (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1990).Google Scholar
Hlaváčková, Konstantina, Czech Fashion 1940–1970: Mirror of the Times (Prague: u(p)m and Olympia Publishing, 2000).Google Scholar
Jowitt, Ken, New World Disorder: The Leninist Extinction (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1992).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Köpp, Ulrike, ‘Heinz Bormann – der Dior der DDR’, UTOPIE kreativ, 123 (2001), 42–51.Google Scholar
Kornai, Janos, Vision and Reality, Market and State: Contradictions and Dilemmas Revisited (Budapest: Corvina, 1990).Google Scholar
Kowalska, Joanna and Możdżyńska-Nawotka, Małgorzata, Fashionable in Communist Poland (Cracow: National Museum and Wroclaw: National Museum, 2016).Google Scholar
Pilkington, Hilary, ‘Farewell to the Tusovka: Masculinities and Femininities on the Moscow Youth Scene’, in Pilkington, Hilary (ed.), Gender, Generation and Identity in Contemporary Russia (London: Routledge, 1996), 236–63.Google Scholar
Prause, Andrea, Catwalk wider den Sozialismus: Die alternative Modeszene der DDR in den 1980er Jahren (Berlin: be.bra wissenschaft verlag, 2018).Google Scholar
Różyc, Marcin, Latham, Paulina, and Dudzic, Beata, Chrysalis (London: Polish Cultural Institute in London, Pola Arts Foundation, 2016).Google Scholar
Rzechorzek, Ewa, Moda Polska Warszawa (Warsaw: PWN SA, 2018).Google Scholar
Simonovics, Ildikó, Rothschild Klára: a vörös divatkirálynő [Klára Rothschild: The Red Fashion Queen] (Budapest: Jaffa Kiadó, 2019).Google Scholar
Stitziel, Judd, Fashioning Socialism: Clothing, Politics and Consumer Culture in East Germany (Oxford: Berg, 2005).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Stokes, , Raymond G., ‘Plastics and the New Society: The German Democratic Republic in the 1950s and 1960s’, in Reid, Susan E. and Crowley, David (eds.), Style and Socialism (Oxford: Berg, 2000), 65–80.Google Scholar
Tarasova, Nina and Popova, Yulia, Viacheslav Zaitsev v Ermitazhe [Viacheslav Zaitsev at the Hermitage] (St Petersburg: The State Hermitage Museum, 2016).Google Scholar
Uchalová, Eva (ed.), Prague Fashion Houses, 1900–1948 (Prague: Museum of Decorative Arts, 2011).Google Scholar
Yurchak, Alexei, Everything Was Forever, until It Was No More: The Last Soviet Generation (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2006).Google Scholar

Select Bibliography

Barthes, Roland, ‘Erté, or À la lettre’, in The Responsibility of Forms: Essays on Music, Art and Representation, trans. Richard Howard (Oxford: Blackwell, 1973), 103–28.Google Scholar
Berghahn, Daniela, ‘“The Past Is a Foreign Country”: Exoticism and Nostalgia in Contemporary Transnational Cinema’, Transnational Screens, 10/1 (2019), 34–52.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Black, Prudence, ‘Designed to Death: Tom Ford’s A Single Man’, Film, Fashion and Consumption, 2/1 (2013), 105–14.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Bruzzi, Stella, ‘F For Fashion’, Sight and Sound, 6/11 (1996), 24–8.Google Scholar
Bruzzi, Stella, ‘Italian Fashion Designers in Hollywood’, in Stanfill, Sonnet (ed.), The Glamour of Italian Fashion since 1945 (London: V&A Publishing, 2014).Google Scholar
Bruzzi, Stella, Undressing Cinema: Clothing and Identity in the Movies (London: Routledge, 1997).Google Scholar
Butchart, Amber, The Fashion of Film: How Cinema Has Inspired Fashion (London: Mitchell Beazley, 2016).Google Scholar
Carter, Ernestine, Magic Names of Fashion (London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1980).Google Scholar
Gibson, Church, Pamela, Fashion and Celebrity Culture (Oxford: Berg, 2012).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Gibson, Church, Pamela, ‘Interview: Fashion, Film and Costuming’, Film, Fashion and Consumption, 6/1 (2017), 5–18.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Dargis, Manohla, ‘Quentin Tarantino on Pulp Fiction’, Sight and Sound, 4/11 (1994), 25.Google Scholar
Karen, De Perthuis, ‘I Am Style: Tilda Swinton’s Emma in Luca Guadagnino’s I Am Love’, Film, Fashion and Consumption, 1/3 (2012), 269–88.Google Scholar
Entwistle, Joanne, The Fashioned Body: Fashion, Dress and Modern Social Theory (Cambridge: Polity Press, 2000).Google Scholar
Gaines, Jane and Herzog, Charlotte (eds.), Fabrications: Costume and the Female Body (London and New York: Routledge, 1990).Google Scholar
Haggard, Claire, ‘Dressing up in Public’, Screen International MIFED Issue/20 (September 1990).Google Scholar
Head, Edith (with Paddy Calistro), Edith Head’s Hollywood (New York: E. P. Dutton, 1983).Google Scholar
Lee, Spike (with Lisa Jones), Do the Right Thing: A Spike Lee Joint (New York: Simon & Schuster, 1989).Google Scholar
Munich, Adrienne (ed.), Fashion in Film (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2011).Google Scholar
Paulicelli, Eugenia, ‘Reframing History: Federico Fellini’s Rome, Fashion and Costume’, Film, Fashion and Consumption, 8/1 (2019), 71–88.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Steedman, Carolyn, Dust (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2001).Google ScholarPubMed
Tarantino, Quentin, ‘Interview’, Empire, 44 (February 1993).Google Scholar
Wilson, Elizabeth, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity (New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press, 2003 [1985]).Google Scholar

Select Bibliography

Banet-Weiser, Sarah, Authentic: The Politics of Ambivalence in a Brand Culture (New York: New York University Press, 2012).Google Scholar
Bennett, Andy, ‘Subcultures or Neo-Tribes? Rethinking the Relationship between Youth, Style and Musical Taste’, Sociology, 33/3 (1999), 599–617.Google Scholar
Crewe, Louise and Beaverstock, Jonathan, ‘Fashioning the City: Cultures of Consumption in Contemporary Urban Spaces’, Geoforum, 29 (1998), 287–308.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Hall, Stuart and Jefferson, Tony (eds.), Resistance through Rituals: Youth Subcultures in Post-War Britain (London: HarperCollins, 1975).Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg, Salaula: The World of Secondhand Clothing and Zambia (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2000).Google Scholar
Jenß, Heike, ‘Dressed in History: Retro Styles and the Construction of Authenticity in Youth Culture’, Fashion Theory, 8/4 (2004), 387–403.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Miller, Daniel and Woodward, Sophie, Blue Jeans: The Art of the Ordinary (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2012).Google Scholar
Sklar, Monica, Punk Style (London: Bloomsbury, 2013).Google Scholar
Smelik, Anneke, ‘The Performance of Authenticity’, Journal for Fashion Writing and Criticism, 1/1 (2011), 76–82.Google Scholar
Tarlo, Emma, Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India (London: Hurst and Co., 1996).Google Scholar
Woodward, Sophie, ‘The Myth of Street Style’, Fashion Theory, 13/1 (2009), 83–101.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Woodward, Sophie, Why Women Wear What They Wear (Oxford: Berg, 2007).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Woodward, Sophie and Fisher, Tom, ‘Fashioning through Materials: Material Culture, Materiality and Processes of Materialization’, Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty, 5/1 (2014), 3–22.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Yuniya, Kawamura, Sneakers: Fashion, Gender and Subculture (London: Bloomsbury, 2016).Google Scholar

Select Bibliography

Assael, Shaun, ‘Skin in the Game’, ESPN, 20 January 2017. www.espn.com/espn/feature/story/_/id/18510975/how-counter-strike-turned-teenager-compulsive-gambler (accessed 25 April 2023).Google Scholar
Baudrillard, Jean, The Consumer Society: Myths and Structures (London: Sage, 1998).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Crary, Jonathan, 24/7: Late Capitalism and the Ends of Sleep (London: Verso, 2014).Google Scholar
Roanne, de Kluizenaar, ‘The Uprise of CGI Influencers: Musings of Armando Kirwin, Artur Mizaffari, and Scott Guthire’, Virtual Humans, 16 October 2020.Google Scholar
Donnarumma, Raffaele, Ipermodernità. Dove va la Narrativa Contemporanea (Bologna: Mulino Editore, 2014).Google Scholar
Evans, Caroline and Vaccari, Alessandra, Time in Fashion (London and New York: Bloomsbury, 2020).CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Haraway, Donna, Simians, Cyborgs, and Women: The Reinvention of Nature (London: Free Association Books, 1991).Google Scholar
Jansen, Angela, ‘Fashion and the Phantasmagoria of Modernity: An Introduction to Decolonial Fashion Discourse’, Fashion Theory, 24/6 (2020), 815–36.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Lipovetsky, Gilles, Hypermodern Times (Cambridge: Polity Press, 2005).Google Scholar
Lippens, Ronnie, ‘Hypermodernity, Nomadic Subjectivities, and Radical Democracy: Roads through Ambivalent Clews’, Social Justice, 25/2 (1998), 16–43.Google Scholar
Rocamora, Agnès, ‘New Fashion Times: Fashion and Digital Media’, in Black, Sandy, de la Haye, Amy, Entwistle, Joanne, Root, Regina, Rocamora, Agnès, and Thomas, Helen (eds.), The Handbook of Fashion Studies (London and New York: Bloomsbury, 2013), 61–77.Google Scholar
Russell, Legacy, Glitch Feminism: A Manifesto (London and New York: Verso Books, 2020).Google Scholar
Sedgwick, Peter R., Hypermodernity and Visuality: Critical Perspectives on Theory, Culture, and Politics (Lanham, MD: Rowman & Littlefield, 2019).Google Scholar
Suarez-Villa, Luis, Technocapitalism: A Critical Perspective on Technological Innovation and Corporatism (Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 2009).Google Scholar
Vänska, Annamari, ‘How to Do Humans with Fashion: Towards a Posthuman Critique of Fashion’, International Journal of Fashion Studies, 5/1 (2018), 15–31.CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Save book to Kindle

To save this book to your Kindle, first ensure coreplatform@cambridge.org is added to your Approved Personal Document E-mail List under your Personal Document Settings on the Manage Your Content and Devices page of your Amazon account. Then enter the ‘name’ part of your Kindle email address below. Find out more about saving to your Kindle.

Note you can select to save to either the @free.kindle.com or @kindle.com variations. ‘@free.kindle.com’ emails are free but can only be saved to your device when it is connected to wi-fi. ‘@kindle.com’ emails can be delivered even when you are not connected to wi-fi, but note that service fees apply.

Find out more about the Kindle Personal Document Service.

Available formats
×

Save book to Dropbox

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Dropbox.

Available formats
×

Save book to Google Drive

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.

Available formats
×