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15 - Cuisine

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  04 September 2009

Thomas T. Allsen
Affiliation:
The College of New Jersey, Ewing
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Summary

In the Mongolian Empire the office of ba'urchi, generally translated as “cook,” or sometimes as “steward” or “commissary,” had an unexpected importance. As noted earlier, in the Mongols' patrimonial conception of government, which was rooted structurally and ideologically in the qaghan's household establishment, the title of ba'urchi clearly advertised the holder's closeness to the ruler and his right to act on his behalf. Cooks were officers in the imperial guard (keshig), one formation of which, the night guard (kebte'ül), oversaw the provision and preparation of drink and food (undān ide'en) during the reigns of Chinggis Qan and Ögödei; in addition to their titular duties these officers often held active military commands. For example, Ked Buqa, who led the huge Mongolian field army against the Ismaʾīlīs and ʿAbbāsids in the 1250s, held the title of ba'urchi.

Indeed, the kitchen was the starting point of many an illustrious career in the empire. Bolad and his father were both ba'urchis and Bolad's friend and ally, Rashīd al-Dīn, also served in the same capacity; his “entry level” appointment is reported in Bar Hebraeus:

Now a certain Jew,whose name was Rashīd ad-Dāwlāh, had been appointed to prepare food which was suitable for Kaijātū [Gheikhatu], of every kind which might be demanded, and wheresoever it might be demanded.

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Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication year: 2001

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  • Cuisine
  • Thomas T. Allsen, The College of New Jersey, Ewing
  • Book: Culture and Conquest in Mongol Eurasia
  • Online publication: 04 September 2009
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511497445.017
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  • Cuisine
  • Thomas T. Allsen, The College of New Jersey, Ewing
  • Book: Culture and Conquest in Mongol Eurasia
  • Online publication: 04 September 2009
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511497445.017
Available formats
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Save book to Google Drive

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.

  • Cuisine
  • Thomas T. Allsen, The College of New Jersey, Ewing
  • Book: Culture and Conquest in Mongol Eurasia
  • Online publication: 04 September 2009
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511497445.017
Available formats
×