The symbolism of hunt and forest became significant partisan political markers following the Civil War and Revolution. Knowledge and expertise in the hunt, and respect for its exclusions, became a test of reverence for a monarchy restored in part on the ineffable distinction of nobility and commons in a hierarchic social and political order. In 1664, even the hunt's cuisine became a political site, as restoration cookbook writers reviled republican pretensions. The anonymous writer of The Court and Kitchen of Elizabeth, Commonly Called Joan Cromwell celebrated “a haunch of venison” as a “truly royal and constant dish in its season at court, when it was so really,” but kept only as a “curiosity” and “dish of state” under the Commonwealth and Protectorate. The formerly “extraordinary” qualities of venison vanished, “since the times destroyed the game, yet cheapened and aviled the venison, making it everyone's meat.” A venison pasty had been “a king of dainties, which Oliver stole by retail, as he did a more real regality.”