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Women and Immigrants in the Sweatshop: Categories of Labor Segmentation Revisited

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  03 June 2009

Nancy L. Green
Nancy L. Green
Affiliation:
Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales, Paris
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Extract

The garment industry is a good example of the relative autonomy of academic fields. Two histories of the industry are being written simultaneously but separately. One is a history of women; the other, a history of immigrants. Two types of workers have indeed come to the sweatshops, and each have had distinct reasons for doing so. The nineteenth century saw the shift from tailormade to ready-made garments, from the (hand-held) needle to the sewing machine, from tailors and dressmakers to garment workers, and from more to less skill in the making of clothing. The ready-to-wear revolution was also accompanied by a global shift in the sewing labor force, from men to women and from natives to immigrants. The story is a complicated one, yet one which has most often been told in parallel fashion.

Type
The Migration of Gendered Categories
Information
Comparative Studies in Society and History , Volume 38 , Issue 3 , July 1996 , pp. 411 - 433
Copyright
Copyright © Society for the Comparative Study of Society and History 1996

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References

I would like to thank Leora Auslander, Laura Frader, Judith Friedlander, Gemma Gagnon, Marion Kaplan, Ruth Milkman, Don Reid, and the anonymous reviewer of CSSH for their comments on earlier versions of this article.

1 The major contemporary works on the garment industry tend to treat primarily either women or immigrants. For example, see Coffin, Judith, “Woman's Place and Women's Work in the Paris Clothing Trades, 1830–1914 (disser., Yale University, 1985)Google Scholar, who does deal with immigrants, briefly, 149–155; Coons, Lorraine, Women Home Workers in the Parisian Garment Industry, 1860–1915 (New York City: Garland Publishing, 1987)Google Scholar; Waldinger, Roger D., Through the Eye of the Needle: Immigrants and Enterprise in New York's Garment Trades (New York: New York University Press, 1986)Google Scholar (most of the immigrant owners he interviewed were men). In the mid–1950s, two books came out almost simultaneously, one dealing with women homeworkers and the other with male immigrant homeworkers in Paris. Guilbert, Madeleine and Isambert-Jamati, Viviane, Travail féminin et travail à domicile (Paris: CNRS, 1956)Google Scholar; Klatzmann, Joseph, Le travail à domicile dans l'industrie parisienne du vêtement (Paris: Armand Colin, 1957)Google Scholar. Klatzmann simply notes that their book appeared just after his was completed. Some of the notable recent exceptions are Glenn, Susan, Daughters of the Shtetl: Life and Labor in the Immigrant Generation (Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1990)Google Scholar; Cohen, Miriam, Workshop to Office: Two Generations of Italian Women in New York City, 1900–1950 (Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1992)Google Scholar; Phizacklea, Annie, Unpacking the Fashion Industry (London: Routledge, 1990)Google Scholar. For an excellent treatment of some of the methodological problems in analytical dualisms, particularly with regard to class and gender, see Beneria, Lourdes and Roldan, Martha, The Crossroads of Class and Gender: Industrial Homework, Subcontracting, and Household Dynamics in Mexico City (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1987)Google Scholar; and Parr, Joy, The Gender of Breadwinners: Women, Men, and Change in Two Industrial Towns. 1880–1950 (Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1990), 7–9Google Scholar.

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68 With thanks to Beneria and Roldan for their title.