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Propagation of surface gravity waves over a rectangular submerged bar

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  26 April 2006

Vincent Rey
Affiliation:
Département de Physique des Systèmes Désordonnés, SETT, URA 1168 du CNRS, Université de Provence, Centre de Saint-Jérôme, Case 161, 13397 Marseille Cedex 13, France
Max Belzons
Affiliation:
Département de Physique des Systèmes Désordonnés, SETT, URA 1168 du CNRS, Université de Provence, Centre de Saint-Jérôme, Case 161, 13397 Marseille Cedex 13, France
Elisabeth Guazzelli
Affiliation:
Département de Physique des Systèmes Désordonnés, SETT, URA 1168 du CNRS, Université de Provence, Centre de Saint-Jérôme, Case 161, 13397 Marseille Cedex 13, France Permanent address: Laboratoire de Physique et Mécanique des Milieux Héterogènes, UA 857 du CNRS, Groupe Hydrodynamique et Mécanique Physique, ESPCI, 10 rue Vauquelin, 75231 Paris Cedex 05, France.

Abstract

Experiments on the propagation of linear and weakly nonlinear gravity waves over a rectangular submerged bar were undertaken through very careful measurements in a wave tank. Effects arising from the finite amplitude of the surface wave and those coming from the generation of vortices around bar edges were examined. Experimental data are compared with results of two theoretical models. The first model was derived from Takano (1960) and Kirby & Dalrymple's (1983) work and the second model was developed by Devillard, Dunlop & Souillard (1988) using the renormalized transfer matrix introduced by Miles (1967).

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 1992 Cambridge University Press

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