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The Working Engines of Distinction: Discourse for Main Course in Restaurant Reviews

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  23 February 2012

David Williamson*
Affiliation:
AUT University, New Zealand. david.williamson@aut.ac.nz
Helen Tregidga
Affiliation:
AUT University, New Zealand.
Candice Harris
Affiliation:
AUT University, New Zealand.
Courtney Keen
Affiliation:
AUT University, New Zealand.
*
*David Williamson, Faculty of Applied Humanities, AUT University, Private Bag 92006, Auckland 1142, New Zealand.
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Abstract

Through a study of a set of restaurant reviews, this article examines forms of knowledge constructed within such reviews and considers their potential effects. It examines 200 restaurant reviews published by Cuisine Magazine over a 5-year period from 2003 to 2007. We find that the reviews narrowly focus on food, wine and ambience over other categories such as service, chefs, cost/value, and owner/operator. We note that through such focus and the language used, the reviews demonstrate an extreme level of exclusion, ignoring a vast field of possible criteria for judging an establishment and experience. Furthermore, through focusing on areas that both allows and creates specialist knowledge and mutual elevation (i.e., food, wine and chef/owner worship) we argue that restaurant reviews are engaging in an escalating discourse of class distinction. Potential effects of this discourse noted include the identification that the celebration of distinction and exclusion perpetuated in the restaurant reviews analysed here stands in contrast to understandings of hospitality as inclusive practice. We suggest, and note concern that, in the attempt to create new levels of refinement and distinction, the core idea of hospitality is becoming lost.

Type
Articles
Copyright
Copyright © Cambridge University Press 2009

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