Hostname: page-component-77c89778f8-n9wrp Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-07-16T14:28:12.955Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false
  • English
  • Français

London, Paris, Istanbul, and Cairo: Fashion And International Trade in the Nineteenth Century

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  21 July 2015

Nancy Micklewright
Nancy Micklewright*
Affiliation:
University of Victoria, Department of History in Art
Get access Rights & Permissions [Opens in a new window]

Extract

This paper is an examination of the relationship between the Anglo-Turkish Convention of 1838 and the transformation in Ottoman women's dress which took place during the nineteenth century. Until now, there has been a tendency to assume a direct cause-and-effect relationship between the Anglo-Turkish Convention and other economic treaties of the period, and fashion. The argument has been that the substantial increase in the volume of imported textiles and other goods led to a change in clothing styles, and indeed to changes in Ottoman taste generally, but my study of Ottoman women's dress indicates that the situation was much more complex. It is clear that the transformation in dress was well under way by the time of the Anglo-Turkish Convention, proceeding at its own rate, tied to events other than the treaty. In this context, fashion represents one of a whole complex of components of culture which, although affected by economic developments, are primarily social phenomena. Examining an area such as fashion (or painting or theater, for instance) will lead to a richer understanding of the period of the Anglo-Turkish Convention.

Type
Research Article
Information
New Perspectives on Turkey , Volume 7: Special Issue Title: The 1838 Convention and Its Impact , spring 1992 , pp. 125 - 136
Copyright
Copyright © New Perspectives on Turkey 1992

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Arie, Rachel. 1968. “Notes sur le costume en Egypte dans la première moitié du XIXè siècle,” Revue des études islamiques, 36, pp. 201–23.Google Scholar
Baron, Beth. 1987. “Unveiling in Early 20th-century Egypt: Practical and Symbolic Considerations.” Unpublished paper.Google Scholar
Cole, Juan R. 1981. “Feminism, Class, and Islam in Turn- of-the-Century Egypt,” International Journal of Middle East Studies, 13, pp. 387–407.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Cotton, Walter. 1836. Visit to Constantinople, and Athens. New York: Leavitt, Lord and Co.Google Scholar
Göçek, Fatma Müge. 1987. East Encounters West. France and the Ottoman Empire in the Eighteenth Century. New York: Oxford University Press.Google Scholar
Mrs.Hornby, Edmund. 1863. In and Around Stamboul. Philadelphia: James Challen and Son.Google Scholar
Issawi, Charles. 1980. The Economic History of Turkey 1800-1914. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.Google Scholar
Lane, Edward W. 1978. An Account of the Manners and Customs of the Modern Egyptians. The Hague: East-West Publications. (Reprint of 1895 edition).Google Scholar
Lott, Emmeline. 1860s. Harem Life in Eygpt and Constantinople. Philadelphia: T. B. Peterson and Brothers.Google Scholar
Micklewright, Nancy. 1986. Women's Dress in Nineteenth-Century Istanbul: Mirror of a Changing Society. Ph.D. dissertation, University of Pennsylvania.Google Scholar
Micklewright, Nancy. 1987. “Tracing the Transformations in Women's Dress in Nineteenth-Century Istanbul,” Dress, 13, pp. 33–42.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Neave, Dorina. 1933. Twenty-six Years on the Bosphorous. London: Grayson and Grayson.Google Scholar
Paine, Carolyn. 1859. Tent and Harem. New York: D. Appleton and Co.Google Scholar
Pamuk, Şevket. 1987. The Ottoman Empire and European Capitalism, 1820-1913. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
Pardoe, Julia. 1837. The City of the Sultan and Domestic Manners of the Turks in 1836. Philadelphia: Carey, Lea and Blanchard.Google Scholar
Porter, David. 1835. Constantinople and its Environs, in a Series of Letters. New York: Harper and Brothers.Google Scholar
Slade, Adolphus. 1837. Turkey, Greece, and Malta. London: Saunders and Otley.Google Scholar
Scarce, Jennifer. 1980. “Turkish Fashion in Transition,” Costume, 14, pp. 144–67.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Scarce, Jennifer. 1987. Women's Costume of the Near and Middle East. London: Unwin Hyman.Google Scholar
Steele, Valerie. 1988. Paris Fashion. New York: Oxford University Press.Google Scholar
Tugay, Emine Foat. 1963. Three Centuries. Family Chronicles of Turkey and Egypt. London: Oxford University Press.Google Scholar
Walker, Mary Adelaide. 1886. Eastern Life and Scenery. London: Chapman and Hall, Ltd.Google Scholar
White, Charles. 1844. Three Years in Constantinople. London: Henry Colburn.Google Scholar