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Chapter 4 - John Webster and the Culture of Cosmetics

Farah Karim-Cooper
Affiliation:
King's College London
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Summary

John Webster's contributions to the 1615 edition of Overbury's Characters includes a ‘fayre and happy Milke-mayd’, whom Webster describes as

a Countrey Wench, that is so farre from making her selfe beautifull by Art, that one looke of hers is able to put all face-physicke out of countenance … the lining of her apparel (which is her selfe) is farre better than outsides of Tissew: for though shee bee not arrayed in the spoyle of the Silkeworme, shee is deckt in innocence, a farre better wearing … the Garden and Bee-hive are all her Physicke & Chyrurgery, & she lives the longer for't.

Character devising was primarily a rhetorical exercise, a chance for writers to flex their wit and satirical muscles. Webster describes the milk-maid's beauty and charm within an anti-cosmetic context. She does not use art to make herself beautiful, instead she is ‘decked with innocence’ and her labour provides her with the health and vitality that would draw beauty to her cheeks. Webster seemingly participates in an anti-cosmetic discourse in this example, by raising nature above art, but it is a rhetorical exercise whereby, skillfully, he surpasses the anti-cosmetic polemicists by using wit, literary form and metaphor to address the issue of beauty within a fairly new genre. Similarly, in his dramatic works, Webster seems to denigrate cosmetic embellishment; for example, in The Devil's Law-Case, painting is described as ‘odious’ and women described as ‘creatures made up and compounded / Of all monsters, poisoned minerals, / And sorcerous herbs that grows’ (IV, ii, 291–3).

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Publisher: Edinburgh University Press
Print publication year: 2006

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