The deserted ruins of Nalanda lie 55 miles southeast of Patna close to the village of Baragaon. The ruins were discovered in the ninteenth century by the British archaeologist Alexander Cunningham who used Xuanzang's record of his travels in seventh century India to identify the ruins. About 150,000 square metres of ground have been excavated but this accounts for less than 10 per cent of the university site. Among the artefacts found were copper plates carrying the crest of the university with records of endowments to the university. A large stupa and living quarters for the students and teachers have been located. These excavations have only scratched the surface of the great university as most of the ruins remain uncovered. Xuanzang travelled from China to the Nalanda University for further education because in the seventh century, it was the greatest centre of learning in the world with its fame extending far beyond the borders of India.

After the death of Skandagupta in 467 BCE, the Guptas declined in importance and their Empire disintegrated into multiple small kingdoms. The three most important kingdoms were those ruled by the Vardhans with their capital at Kanauj, the Chalukyas with their capital at Badami, and the Pallavas with their capital at Kanchi. Although there was no central Imperial authority, the many kingdoms nevertheless provided a relatively safe environment for the progress of trade and industry. The general prosperity allowed the development of the sciences and the arts. Large universities came into existence and the quest for knowledge was pursued in many kingdoms. There were robbers and bandits in some lawless areas between kingdoms but there were no massive wars, large-scale destruction of cities, or disruption of settled life.

The Chinese monk Xuanzang travelled through India from 630 CE to 645 CE and as one of the greatest scholars of Buddhism, he was given the title of “The Master of the Law” by his disciples. For students of Indian history, his Record of the Western Region, which catalogued his travels through India, including visits to its three most important kingdoms, provide a most reliable account of the country.

Xuanzang was the grandson of the President of the Imperial College in Beijing. At an early age he showed great intelligence and an earnest interest in Buddhism and was duly accepted into the monastery at Luoyang.