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10 - Instruction in Eighteenth-Century Coquetry: Learning about Fashion and Speaking its Language

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  25 October 2017

Xénia Borderioux
Affiliation:
Research Fellow at the Institute for Modern Texts and Manuscripts of the French National Centre for Scientific Research (CNRS) and the Ecole Normale Supérieure (ENS)
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Summary

Foreign languages exerted an influence on Russian throughout the eighteenth century. The number of foreign words assimilated into Russian, taking all foreign languages together, is thought to have been at least 8,500 (Birzhakova et al. [1972] 1999: 83). French had a central place among the foreign languages known in Russia, but it did not have the same impact on Russian in all spheres. Its contact with Russian would seem to have been particularly intense in the female domain, in things to do with beauty, clothes and fashion.

What role did fashion play in the acquisition of French lexis by Russian? I shall aim to provide material for an answer to this question from two types of source: first, fashion advertisements in the Russian press, which in truth were translations of material taken from French sources; and secondly, satirical publications and comedies, which parodied the special variety of Franco-Russian in which lovers of fashion expressed themselves. Taken as a whole, these texts enable us to paint a rounded picture, at one and the same time, of fashion, its vocabulary and its reception.

THE FIRST PUBLICATIONS ON FRENCH FASHIONS IN RUSSIAN

Under pressure from Peter the Great, the Russian nobility adopted European costume, making use of German, French and even Hungarian and Polish models. From Peter's time the роба (a loanword from the French robe) was one of the main models for ladies at court. This was a dress with a corset and a very wide skirt supported on both sides by a sort of frame called a ‘pannier’. This item of clothing was reserved for great occasions, whereas a робронт was worn on so-called ‘ordinary’ holidays. The word denoting this latter design also comes from a French expression, robe ronde (literally, ‘round dress’), which was the name for a relatively comfortable and simple dress whose skirt was shaped like a bell.

The робронт had pride of place in the female wardrobe in the reign of Catherine II. In an inventory of the dowry of Varvara Razumovskaia, dated 1774, for example, we find twenty-two of them.

Type
Chapter
Information
French and Russian in Imperial Russia
Language Use among the Russian Elite
, pp. 193 - 208
Publisher: Edinburgh University Press
Print publication year: 2015

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