1 - Introduction
Published online by Cambridge University Press: 06 October 2009
Summary
The subject of ocean waves and their generation by wind has fascinated me greatly since I started towork in the Department of Oceanography at the Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute (KNMI) at the end of 1979. The wind-induced growth of water waves on a pond or a canal is a daily experience for those who live in the lowlands, yet it appeared that this process was hardly understood. Gerbrand Komen, who arrived 2 years earlier at KNMI and who introduced me to this field, pointed out that the most prominent theory explaining wave growth by wind was the Miles (1957) theory which relied on a resonant interaction between wind and waves. Since I did my Ph.D. in plasma physics, I noticed immediately an analogy with the problem of the interaction of plasma waves and electrons; this problem has been studied extensively both experimentally and theoretically. The plasma waves problem has its own history. It was Landau (1946), who discovered that depending on the slope of the particle distribution function at the location where the phase velocity of the plasma wave equals the particle velocity, the plasma wave would either grow or damp. Because of momentum and energy conservation this would result in a modification of the particle-velocity distribution. For a spectrum of growing plasma waves with random phase, this problem was addressed in the beginning of the 1960s by Vedenov et al. (1961) and by Drummond and Pines (1962).
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- Information
- The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind , pp. 1 - 6Publisher: Cambridge University PressPrint publication year: 2004