‘I won't be mobile for much longer,’ Tamiko said, ‘So let's pay a visit to Irma in the Designated Area.’

Despite her enthusiasm and the beautiful early summer weather, the journey was fraught from the outset. We stood in a long queue at the Garden Bridge checkpoint, and finally, just before our turn, the Japanese sentry started shouting at the Westerner in front of us. Right before our eyes, the man was forced to the ground and slapped across the face. The impact made me jump back, but Tamiko stood firm, with a stone-cold expression while the sentry held down the prostrated man with a dirty boot. After what seemed an interminable period of time, the sentry kicked the Westerner away. My knees were shaking as the guard checked our papers and dismissed us with a grunt.

Our foray into Hongkew and the Designated Area did not get any better. Eastern Hongkew was even more crowded than the Japanese area to the west, the streets and alleys filled to the brim with people, rubbish, mangy dogs, children squatting and men urinating against walls. Even the weather seemed to have turned hot and oppressive.

Irma's place was tucked in a narrow alleyway off Tongshan Road – a dingy rundown building which was a stark contrast from the pretty house she shared with Agnes in leafy Frenchtown. We were about to bang on the door, when Irma came bouncing out.

‘Lieblings! I had a hunch there was nice surprise outside,’ she exclaimed, waving her arms in excitement. Her hair, now half grey, seemed to have absorbed the humidity and curled wildly in different directions.

‘Ah, you have brought me soap from Agnes. Danke! Now I can clean my place for your next visit.’ My heart sank, thinking how nice it would be to have a cup of tea after our trying journey.

‘Irma, if you don't mind, we would love to come in now,’ Tamiko said, to my relief.

With a furtive look, Irma said, ‘It is not easy to get to my room, especially for you, Tamiko.’ Tamiko said she would be fine, and Irma had little choice but to invite us in.