Just outside the town of Teh Chow we crossed the celebrated Grand Canal, the direct water-way to Tientsin and Peking, and entered the province of Chih-li. There were many boats in the stream. The ferry-boat was large, and had no sail. It was simply drawn across by means of a rope, though the deep canal is at this point much wider than the Suez Canal.

About a mile distant, on the Peking side, we saw a new fort bristling with brass cannon. No soldiers were loitering about, as it was very early in the morning. At a little distance from the fort a courier on horseback overtook and passed us. His despatches were more bulky than usual, but they were covered with the genuine imperial yellow. Immediately behind him, on a beautiful black pony, rode an armed officer, to guard the precious papers. A heavy shower of rain fell, and we left them behind. Very soon they overtook and again passed us. They had stopped to cover up the packet of despatches with oilskin, and the officer had drawn an oilskin hood over his helmet. Both were pleasant-looking men. The officer remarked to the muleteer as he passed, ‘How can the lady bear the cold and rain?’ I could not help admiring their steeds as they galloped off.