Zandspruit is connected to Johannesburg’s inner city via Beyers Naudé Drive. This road begins at the University of Johannesburg in the leafy green suburb of Auckland Park and winds its way through the older (and still predominantly white) suburbs of Northcliff, Blackheath, Fairland, and Randpark Ridge to the newer and racially more diverse suburbs of Sundowner, Northwold, and Ruimsig. These newer residential areas have taken a particular post-apartheid form in which townhouse complexes and gated communities are the norm. The 30-kilometre road is lined with shopping malls, drive-through fast-food restaurants, car dealerships, and large billboards advertising the latest cars, fashion trends, and alcohol brands. You are getting close to Zandspruit when you reach a four-way intersection that, to the left, features a newly built townhouse complex advertised as offering ‘affordable’ flats and, to the right, leads to the Northgate dome (a large multipurpose event venue). As you continue straight, you pass the turn-off for the Jackal Creek Golf Estate and the Honeydew police station on your right and a dirt soccer pitch on your left. Then, as if out of nowhere, shacks begin to protrude on to the sidewalk, informal electricity wires criss-cross above, and the pavement is chock-a-block with commuters, traders, and hustlers (figure 1.1).
The sidewalk doubles up as the main avenue for informal trade. Many of the shacks that jut into the street operate as homes as well as hair salons, shoe-repair stands, and stalls and range from tiny to quite spacious. The smaller makeshift tables sell oranges, sweets, small packets of chips, and cigarettes, while the larger establishments sell vegetables, second-hand clothes, mobile phone accessories, and traditional medicines. Some vendors operate from shipping containers that stock larger items including winter blankets, paraffin cookers, mattresses, and roller suitcases. Others, selling sugar cane, avocados, and naartjies (tangerines), operate from the back of car boots and open bakkies (small pickup trucks). Cages crammed with bony chickens are also common. Still others, especially those selling pirated DVDs and CDs, walk up and down the street with their stock in a pouch. They do this to be able to escape the police who raid this strip from time to time. Most traders on this walkway are middle-aged women, often immigrants, and many have young children with them. Many sell identical bags of rice, roasted peanuts, spinach, beans, or biscuits, displayed on a plank of wood balancing precariously on a plastic bucket.