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Trends in the Fashion Business: Spain and Italy in Comparison, 1973–2013

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  01 August 2019

VERONICA BINDA  and
ELISABETTA MERLO
VERONICA BINDA
Affiliation:
Veronica Binda’s research focuses on business history in southern European countries, global economic history, and the history of international business. Her main publications include The Dynamics of Big Business (Routledge 2013) and articles in Business History, Business History Review, and the European Journal of International Management, among other journals. Contact information: Department of Social and Political Sciences, Bocconi University, and Institute for Advanced Research in Business and Economics, Universidad Pública de Navarra. E-mail: veronica.binda@gmail.com.
ELISABETTA MERLO
Affiliation:
Elisabetta Merlo’s research interests focus on the history of the Italian fashion industry. Her main publications include articles in Business History, Business History Review, Journal of Modern Italian Studies, and Investigaciones de Historia Económica-Economic History Research. Contact information: ICRIOS—the Invernizzi Center for Research on Innovation, Organization, Strategy and Entrepreneurship, and Department of Social and Political Sciences, Bocconi University. E-mail: elisabetta.merlo@unibocconi.it.
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Abstract

This article investigates the dynamics that characterized the top fashion industry companies in Italy and Spain in the last three decades of the twentieth century and the first thirteen years of the new millennium. The first section describes the sources and the methodology adopted. The second compares the features and transformations of the largest firms in the industry. The third focuses on these companies in 2013. The fourth discusses our findings, focusing on the impact that globalization and a possible “advantage of backwardness” had on the emergence of Italy and Spain as trendsetters.

Type
Article
Information
Enterprise & Society , Volume 21 , Issue 1 , March 2020 , pp. 79 - 109
Copyright
Copyright © The Author 2019. Published by Cambridge University Press on behalf of the Business History Conference. All rights reserved. 

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Footnotes

The authors would like to thank the referees and editor for their insightful comments and suggestions. We would also like to thank Obra Social “La Caixa” and Fundación Bancaria Caja Navarra, who generously financially supported the research on the Spanish case within the framework of the initiative “Ayudas para la Captación del Talento adscritas a los Institutos de Investigación de la Universidad Pública de Navarra” (Institute for Advanced Research in Business and Economics, Universidad Pública de Navarra).

References

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Puig Raposo, Núria. Bayer, Cepsa, Repsol, Puig, Schering y La Seda: Constructores de la química española. Madrid: LID, 2003.Google Scholar
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Salerno, Humberto, and Gay Zaragoza, Andrea, The Mango Story. Madrid: LID, 2011.Google Scholar
Salerno, Humberto, and Gay Zaragoza, Andrea. El Corazón de Mango. Madrid: LID, 2010.Google Scholar
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Arrigo, Elisa. “Fast Fashion Business Model: An Overview.” In Handbook of Research on Global Fashion Management and Merchandising, edited by Vecchi, Alessandra and Buckley, Chitra, 186–209. Hershey, PA: IGI Global, 2016.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Becerro, Manuel María. “Hytasa, el sueño de la industria textil sevillana que se tornó en pesadilla.” ABC de Sevilla, June 14, 2016. http://sevilla.abc.es/sevilla/sevi-hyatasa-sueno-industria-textil-sevillana-torno-pesadilla-201606140009_noticia.html.Google Scholar
Bhardwaj, Vertica, and Fairhurst, Ann. “Fast Fashion: Response to Changes in the Fashion Industry.” International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research 20, no. 1 (2010): 165–173.Google Scholar
Biot Roig, Rosa. “Joaquín Sáez Merino.” In Cien empresarios valencianos, edited by Vidal, Javier, 449–451. Madrid: LID, 2005.Google Scholar
Cafagna, Luciano. “The Industrial Revolution in Italy, 1830–1914.” In The Emergence of Industrial Societies: Fontana Economic History of Europe, edited by Cipolla, Carlo Maria, Vol. 4, Part 1, 279–325. Glasgow: Collins/Fontana, 1973.Google Scholar
Campuzano, Zulema. “La internacionalización de la empresa: análisis del caso MANGO.” Final degree diss., Facultad de Economía y Empresa de la Universidad de A Coruña, 2015.Google Scholar
Camuffo, Arnaldo, Romano, Pietro, and Vinelli, Andrea. “ Back to the Future: Benetton Goes Global.” MIT Sloan Management Review, 43, no. 1 (2001): 46–52.Google Scholar
Capalbo, Cinzia. “Creativity and Innovation of the Italian Fashion System in the Inter-war Period (1919–1943).” Investigaciones de Historia Económica—Economic History Research, 12, no. 2 (2016): 90–99.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Castellano, José Maria. “Una ventaja competitiva: el factor tiempo: El caso Inditex-Zara.” Papeles de Economia Española, 56, no. 7 (1993): 402–404.Google Scholar
Castellano, José Maria. “El proceso de internacionalización de Inditex.” Información Comercial Española, 799, no. 2 (2002): 209–217.Google Scholar
Catalan, Jordi, and Ramon-Muñoz, Ramon. “Marshall in Iberia: Industrial Districts and Leading Firms in the Creation of Competitive Advantage in Fashion Products.” Enterprise & Society, 14, 2 (2013): 327–359.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
“Cortefiel, de mercería a multinacional.” El Mundo Economía, May 12, 2005.Google Scholar
“The Dedicated Followers of Fast Fashion.” The Economist, July 5, 2014.Google Scholar
Dei Ottati, Gabi. “A Transnational Fast Fashion Industrial District: An Analysis of the Chinese Businesses in Prato.” Cambridge Journal of Economics, 38, no. 5 (2014): 1247–1274.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Hernández, Santiago. “La familia Hinojosa cuelga la percha.” El País, May 15, 2005.Google Scholar
Lamelas, Marcos. “Thomas Meyer, la victoria del empresario hippy.” El Confidencial, January 5, 2013.Google Scholar
Lieberman, Marvin B., and Montgomery., David B. “First-Mover Advantages.” Strategic Management Journal, 9, no. 51 (1998): 41–58.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Lieberman, Marvin B. “First-Mover (dis)Advantages: Retrospective and Link with the Resource-Based View.” Strategic Management Journal, 19, no. 12 (1998): 1111–1126.3.0.CO;2-W>CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Llonch Casanovas, Montserrat. “La competitividad de los distritos catalanes de género de punto, 1961–2004.” In Distritos y Clusters en la Europa del Sur, edited by Catalan, Jordi, Antonio Miranda, José, and Ramon-Muñoz, Ramon, 241–258. Madrid: LID, 2011.Google Scholar
López, Carmen, and Fan, Ying. “Internationalization of the Spanish Fashion Brand Zara.” Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 13, no. 2 (2009): 279–296.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Manera Erbina, Carles, de Dios, Ramon Molina, and Casasnovas Camps, Miquel Ángel. “La atmósfera industrial del calzado en Baleares, 1970–2002.” In Distritos y Clusters en la Europa del Sur, edited by Catalan, Jordi, Antonio Miranda, José, and Ramon-Muñoz, Ramon, 213-240. Madrid: LID, 2011.Google Scholar
“Mango cambia de estrategia para ser más competitiva.” Expansión, December 4, 2015. http://www.expansion.com/empresas/distribucion/2015/12/04/5661626b268e3e52478b4586.html.Google Scholar
Merlo, Elisabetta. “Italian Fashion Business: Achievements and Challenges (1970s–2000s).” Business History, 53, no. 3 (2011): 344–362.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Merlo, Elisabetta. “Italian Luxury Goods Industry on the Move: SMEs and Global Value Chains.” In Global Luxury: Organizational Change and Emerging Markets Since the 1970s, edited by Donzè, Pierre-Yves and Fuyoka, Rijka, 39–63. Singapore: Springer, 2017.Google Scholar
Merlo, Elisabetta, and Perugini, Mario. “Making Italian Fashion Global: Brand Building and Management at Gruppo Finanziario Tessile (1950s–1990s).” Business History, doi: 10.1080/00076791.2017.1329299.Google Scholar
Merlo, Elisabetta, and Polese, Francesca. “Turning Fashion into Business: The Emergence of Milan as an International Hub.” Business History Review, 80, no. 3 (2006): 415–447.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Miranda, José Antonio. “The Country-of-Origin Effect and the International Expansion of Spanish Fashion Companies, 1975–2015.” Business History, doi: 10.1080/00076791.2017.1374370.Google Scholar
Missé, Andreu. “Hilados y Tejidos Puigneró, SA, suspende pagos y declara una deuda de 9.433 millones de pesetas.” El Pais, May 20, 1983.Google Scholar
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