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Laboratory-scale swash flows generated by a non-breaking solitary wave on a steep slope

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  21 May 2018

P. Higuera Open the ORCID record for P. Higuera [Opens in a new window] ,
P. L.-F. Liu ,
C. Lin ,
W.-Y. Wong  and
M.-J. Kao
P. Higuera*
Affiliation:
Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, National University of Singapore, 117576, Singapore
P. L.-F. Liu
Affiliation:
Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, National University of Singapore, 117576, Singapore School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14850, USA Institute of Hydrological and Oceanic Sciences, National Central University, Jhongli, Taoyuan, 320, Taiwan
C. Lin
Affiliation:
Department of Civil Engineering, National Chung Hsing University, Taichung, 402, Taiwan
W.-Y. Wong
Affiliation:
Department of Civil Engineering, National Chung Hsing University, Taichung, 402, Taiwan
M.-J. Kao
Affiliation:
Department of Civil Engineering, National Chung Hsing University, Taichung, 402, Taiwan
*
†Email address for correspondence: phigueracoastal@gmail.com
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Abstract

The main goal of this paper is to provide insights into swash flow dynamics, generated by a non-breaking solitary wave on a steep slope. Both laboratory experiments and numerical simulations are conducted to investigate the details of runup and rundown processes. Special attention is given to the evolution of the bottom boundary layer over the slope in terms of flow separation, vortex formation and the development of a hydraulic jump during the rundown phase. Laboratory experiments were performed to measure the flow velocity fields by means of high-speed particle image velocimetry (HSPIV). Detailed pathline patterns of the swash flows and free-surface profiles were also visualized. Highly resolved computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulations were carried out. Numerical results are compared with laboratory measurements with a focus on the velocities inside the boundary layer. The overall agreement is excellent during the initial stage of the runup process. However, discrepancies in the model/data comparison grow as time advances because the numerical model does not simulate the shoreline dynamics accurately. Introducing small temporal and spatial shifts in the comparison yields adequate agreement during the entire rundown process. Highly resolved numerical solutions are used to study physical variables that are not measured in laboratory experiments (e.g. pressure field and bottom shear stress). It is shown that the main mechanism for vortex shedding is correlated with the large pressure gradient along the slope as the rundown flow transitions from supercritical to subcritical, under the developing hydraulic jump. Furthermore, the bottom shear stress analysis indicates that the largest values occur at the shoreline and that the relatively large bottom shear stress also takes place within the supercritical flow region, being associated with the backwash vortex system rather than the plunging wave. It is clearly demonstrated that the combination of laboratory observations and numerical simulations have indeed provided significant insights into the swash flow processes.

JFM classification

Geophysical and Geological Flows: Coastal engineering Waves/Free-surface Flows: Solitary waves Vortex Flows: Vortex shedding
Type
JFM Papers
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 847 , 25 July 2018 , pp. 186 - 227
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Copyright
© 2018 Cambridge University Press 

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