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Second-order refraction and diffraction of surface water waves

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  29 March 2006

MENG-YI CHEN
Affiliation:
Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, MA 02139, USA
CHIANG C. MEI
Affiliation:
Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, MA 02139, USA

Abstract

The mild-slope equation is an effective approximation for treating the combined effects of refraction and diffraction of infinitesimal water waves, for it reduces the spatial dimension of the linear boundary-value problem from three to two. We extend this approximation to nonlinear waves up to the second order in wave steepness, in order to simplify the inherently three-dimensional task. Assuming that the geometrical complexity is restricted to a finite, though large, horizontal domain, the hybrid-element method designed earlier for linearized problems is modified for the two-dimensional elliptic boundary-value problems at the second order. In the special case of a semi-circular peninsula (or a vertical cylinder on a cliff) in a sea of constant depth, the solution is analytical. Effects of the angle of incidence are examined for the free-surface height along the cylinder. For a cylinder standing on a shoal of radially varying depth, numerical results are discussed.

Type
Papers
Copyright
© 2006 Cambridge University Press

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