Book contents
- Frontmatter
- PREFACE
- Contents
- LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
- ERRATA
- CHAPTER I GEOGRAPHICAL AND INTRODUCTORY
- CHAPTER II “THE MODEL SETTLEMENT”
- CHAPTER III HANGCHOW
- CHAPTER IV THE HANGCHOW MEDICAL MISSION HOSPITALS
- CHAPTER V SHANGHAI TO HANKOW (HANKAU)
- CHAPTER VI THE FOREIGNERS—HANKOW AND BRITISH TRADE
- CHAPTER VII CHINESE HANKOW (HANKAU)
- CHAPTER VIII HANKOW TO ICHANG
- CHAPTER IX ICHANG
- CHAPTER X THE UPPER YANGTZE
- CHAPTER XI RAPIDS OF THE UPPER YANGTZE
- CHAPTER XII RAPIDS AND TRACKERS
- CHAPTER XIII LIFE ON THE UPPER YANGTZE
- CHAPTER XIV THE YANGTZE AND KUEI FU
- CHAPTER XV NEW YEAR'S DAY AT KUEI-CHOW FU
- CHAPTER XVI KUEI FU TO WAN HSIEN
- CHAPTER XVII CHINESE CHARITIES
- CHAPTER XVIII FROM WAN HSIEN TO SAN TSAN-PU
- CHAPTER XIX SZE CHUAN TRAVELLING
- CHAPTER XX SAN-TSAN-PU TO LIANG-SHAN HSIEN
- CHAPTER XXI LIANG-SHAN HSIEN TO HSIA-SHAN-PO
- CHAPTER XXII HSIA-SHAN-PO TO SIAO-KIAO
- CHAPTER XXIII SIAO-KIAO TO HSIEH-TIEN-TZE
- CHAPTER XXIV HSIEH-TIEN-TZE TO PAONING FU
- CHAPTER XXV PAONING FU AND SIN-TIEN-TZE
- CHAPTER XXVI SIN-TIEN-TZE TO TZE-TUNG HSIEN
- CHAPTER XXVII TZE-TUNG HSIEN TO KUAN HSIEN
- CHAPTER XXVIII KUAN HSIEN AND CHENGTU
- CHAPTER XXIX KUAN HSIEN TO SIN-WEN-PING
- CHAPTER XXX SIN-WEN-PING TO LI-FAN TING
- CHAPTER XXXI LI-FAN TING TO TSA-KU-LAO
- CHAPTER XXXII THE “BEYOND”
- CHAPTER XXXIII THE MAN-TZE, I-REN, OR SHAN-SHANG-REN
- CHAPTER XXXIV FROM SOMO TO CHENGTU FU
- CHAPTER XXXV DOWNWARD BOUND
- CHAPTER XXXVI LUCHOW TO CHUNG-KING FU
- CHAPTER XXXVII THE JOURNEY'S END
- CHAPTER XXXVIII THE OPIUM POPPY AND ITS USE
- CHAPTER XXXIX NOTES ON PROTESTANT MISSIONS IN CHINA
- CONCLUDING REMARKS
- ITINERARY
- APPENDICES
- INDEX
- Plate section
CHAPTER VIII - HANKOW TO ICHANG
Published online by Cambridge University Press: 05 July 2011
- Frontmatter
- PREFACE
- Contents
- LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
- ERRATA
- CHAPTER I GEOGRAPHICAL AND INTRODUCTORY
- CHAPTER II “THE MODEL SETTLEMENT”
- CHAPTER III HANGCHOW
- CHAPTER IV THE HANGCHOW MEDICAL MISSION HOSPITALS
- CHAPTER V SHANGHAI TO HANKOW (HANKAU)
- CHAPTER VI THE FOREIGNERS—HANKOW AND BRITISH TRADE
- CHAPTER VII CHINESE HANKOW (HANKAU)
- CHAPTER VIII HANKOW TO ICHANG
- CHAPTER IX ICHANG
- CHAPTER X THE UPPER YANGTZE
- CHAPTER XI RAPIDS OF THE UPPER YANGTZE
- CHAPTER XII RAPIDS AND TRACKERS
- CHAPTER XIII LIFE ON THE UPPER YANGTZE
- CHAPTER XIV THE YANGTZE AND KUEI FU
- CHAPTER XV NEW YEAR'S DAY AT KUEI-CHOW FU
- CHAPTER XVI KUEI FU TO WAN HSIEN
- CHAPTER XVII CHINESE CHARITIES
- CHAPTER XVIII FROM WAN HSIEN TO SAN TSAN-PU
- CHAPTER XIX SZE CHUAN TRAVELLING
- CHAPTER XX SAN-TSAN-PU TO LIANG-SHAN HSIEN
- CHAPTER XXI LIANG-SHAN HSIEN TO HSIA-SHAN-PO
- CHAPTER XXII HSIA-SHAN-PO TO SIAO-KIAO
- CHAPTER XXIII SIAO-KIAO TO HSIEH-TIEN-TZE
- CHAPTER XXIV HSIEH-TIEN-TZE TO PAONING FU
- CHAPTER XXV PAONING FU AND SIN-TIEN-TZE
- CHAPTER XXVI SIN-TIEN-TZE TO TZE-TUNG HSIEN
- CHAPTER XXVII TZE-TUNG HSIEN TO KUAN HSIEN
- CHAPTER XXVIII KUAN HSIEN AND CHENGTU
- CHAPTER XXIX KUAN HSIEN TO SIN-WEN-PING
- CHAPTER XXX SIN-WEN-PING TO LI-FAN TING
- CHAPTER XXXI LI-FAN TING TO TSA-KU-LAO
- CHAPTER XXXII THE “BEYOND”
- CHAPTER XXXIII THE MAN-TZE, I-REN, OR SHAN-SHANG-REN
- CHAPTER XXXIV FROM SOMO TO CHENGTU FU
- CHAPTER XXXV DOWNWARD BOUND
- CHAPTER XXXVI LUCHOW TO CHUNG-KING FU
- CHAPTER XXXVII THE JOURNEY'S END
- CHAPTER XXXVIII THE OPIUM POPPY AND ITS USE
- CHAPTER XXXIX NOTES ON PROTESTANT MISSIONS IN CHINA
- CONCLUDING REMARKS
- ITINERARY
- APPENDICES
- INDEX
- Plate section
Summary
I left Hankow, without seeing a gleam of sunshine upon it, by the deck-over-deck, American-built, stern-wheel steamer Chang-wo. She had some hundreds of Chinese and two China Inland missionaries on board below, and her very limited saloon accommodation was taken up by four Canadian missionaries returning to Sze Chuan, and the inevitable baby. They had fled nearly a year before, after the destruction of their houses in the riots. I was greatly indebted to two of them. I had a cabin directly over the boiler. The floor was very hot, and even with the window open I could not get the temperature below 74”, and they gave me their cool room in exchange.
The captain was kind and genial. He let me tone unlimited photographic prints in the saloon, ignoring the dishes and buckets involved in the process, and the engineer provided an unlimited supply of condensed water, free both from Yangtze mud and from the alum used to precipitate it. But he had a unique affluence of bad language, which neither the presence of clergy nor women sufficed to check, and which was brought out with slow, thrilling, and emphatically damnatory deliberation on the many occasions on which we ran on shoals.
I had abundant occupation in writing, printing and toning photographs, learning a little from Mr. Endacott of the region for which I was finally bound, taking walks below past the Chinese cabins, where the inmates were reclining in the bliss of opium smoking, the faint, the faint, sickly smell of the drug drifting out at the open doors, or on the upper deck to watch the fleets of strange junks through which the Chang-wo steamed, howling and bellowing.
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- The Yangtze Valley and BeyondAn Account of Journeys in China, Chiefly in the Province of Sze Chuan and Among the Man-tze of the Somo Territory, pp. 83 - 94Publisher: Cambridge University PressPrint publication year: 2010