Book contents
- Frontmatter
- Dedication
- Contents
- Author’s Preface to the English Edition
- The Kanasaka Commentaries
- Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
- Preface
- Contents
- List of Illustrations
- Letter I: First Impressions • Letter I
- Letter II: The Old and the New • Letter II
- Letter III: Yedo • Letter III
- Letter IV: Chinese and Servants • Letter VI
- Letter V: Worship • Letter VIII
- Letter VI: The Journey Begun • Letter IX
- Letter VI (Continued): From Kasukabé to Nikkô • Letter IX (Continued)
- Letter VII: Kanaya’s House • Letter X
- Letter VIII: Nikkô • Letter XI
- Letter IX: A Watering - Place • Letter XII
- Letter X: Domestic Life • Letter XIII
- Letter X. - (Continued.): Evening Employments • Letter XIII (Continued)
- Letter X. - (Completed): Shopping • Letter XIII (Completed.)
- Letter XL: Scant Costumes • Letter XIV
- Letter XII: Dirt and Disease • Letter XV
- Letter XII-(Concluded): High Farming • Letter XV (Concluded)
- Letter XIII: A Malarious District • Letter XVI
- Letter XIV: Extreme Filthiness • Letter XVII
- Letter XV: A River Journey • Letter XVIII
- Letter XVI: Niigata • Letter XX
- Letter XVII: Discomforts • Letter XXII
- Letter XVIII: A Prosperous District • Letter XXIII
- Letter XIX: A Japanese Doctor • Letter XXIV
- LETTER XX: A FEARFUL DISEASE • LETTER XSN
- LETTER XX.—(Continued?): FUNERAL CEREMONIES • LETTER XXV {Continued)
- Letter XX.—(Concluded): Policemen • Letter XXV (Concluded.)
- Letter XXI: A Hospital Visit • Letter XXVI
- Letter XXII: The Police Force • Letter XXVII
- Letter XXIII: ITO’S Virtues And Faults • Letter XXVIII
- Letter XXIV: A Wedding Ceremony • Letter XXIX
- Letter XXV: A Holiday • Letter XXX
- Letter XXVI: A Narrow Escape • Letter XXXI
- Letter XXVII: Shirasawa • Letter XXXII
- Letter XXVIII: An Inundation • Letter XXXIII
- Letter XXVIII: – (Continued) Children’s Games • Letter XXXIII (Continued)
- Letter XXIX: The Tanabata • Letter XXXIV
- Letter XXX: Popular Superstitions • Letter XXXV
- Letter XXXI: Primitive Simplicity • Letter XXXVI
- Letter XXXII: End of the Journey • Letter XXXVII
- Letter XXXIII: The Mission WorK • Letter XXXVIII
- Letter XXXIV: HakodatÉ • Letter XXXIX
- Letter XXXV: A Change of Scenery • Letter XL
- Letter XXXV.—(continued.): A Meeting • Letter XL (continued.)
- Letter XXXVI: Living with the Ainos • Letter XLI
- Letter XXXVI—(Continued.): Aino Hospitality • Letter XLI (Continued.)
- Letter XXXVII: Savage Life • Letter XLII
- Letter XXXVII.—(Continued.): Costume and Customs • Letter XLII (Continued.)
- Letter XXXVII. -(Continued.): Religion of Ainos • Letter XLII (Continued.)
- Letter XXXVIII: A Tipsy Scene • Letter XLIII
- Letter XXXIX: Visit to a Volcano • Letter XLIV
- Letter XXXIX. — (Continued.): A Wet Trip • Letter XLIV (Continued.)
- Letter XL: A Surprise • Letter XLV
- Letter XL.—(Continued.): Solitude • Letter XLV (Continued.)
- Letter XLI: The Missing Link • Letter XLVI
- Letter XLII: Compliments • Letter XLVIII
- Letter XLIII: A Cyclone • Letter XLIX
- Letter XLIV: Cremation • Letter LIX
- Index
- Mr. Murray's General List of Works
Letter XXXIII: The Mission WorK • Letter XXXVIII
Published online by Cambridge University Press: 26 May 2022
- Frontmatter
- Dedication
- Contents
- Author’s Preface to the English Edition
- The Kanasaka Commentaries
- Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
- Preface
- Contents
- List of Illustrations
- Letter I: First Impressions • Letter I
- Letter II: The Old and the New • Letter II
- Letter III: Yedo • Letter III
- Letter IV: Chinese and Servants • Letter VI
- Letter V: Worship • Letter VIII
- Letter VI: The Journey Begun • Letter IX
- Letter VI (Continued): From Kasukabé to Nikkô • Letter IX (Continued)
- Letter VII: Kanaya’s House • Letter X
- Letter VIII: Nikkô • Letter XI
- Letter IX: A Watering - Place • Letter XII
- Letter X: Domestic Life • Letter XIII
- Letter X. - (Continued.): Evening Employments • Letter XIII (Continued)
- Letter X. - (Completed): Shopping • Letter XIII (Completed.)
- Letter XL: Scant Costumes • Letter XIV
- Letter XII: Dirt and Disease • Letter XV
- Letter XII-(Concluded): High Farming • Letter XV (Concluded)
- Letter XIII: A Malarious District • Letter XVI
- Letter XIV: Extreme Filthiness • Letter XVII
- Letter XV: A River Journey • Letter XVIII
- Letter XVI: Niigata • Letter XX
- Letter XVII: Discomforts • Letter XXII
- Letter XVIII: A Prosperous District • Letter XXIII
- Letter XIX: A Japanese Doctor • Letter XXIV
- LETTER XX: A FEARFUL DISEASE • LETTER XSN
- LETTER XX.—(Continued?): FUNERAL CEREMONIES • LETTER XXV {Continued)
- Letter XX.—(Concluded): Policemen • Letter XXV (Concluded.)
- Letter XXI: A Hospital Visit • Letter XXVI
- Letter XXII: The Police Force • Letter XXVII
- Letter XXIII: ITO’S Virtues And Faults • Letter XXVIII
- Letter XXIV: A Wedding Ceremony • Letter XXIX
- Letter XXV: A Holiday • Letter XXX
- Letter XXVI: A Narrow Escape • Letter XXXI
- Letter XXVII: Shirasawa • Letter XXXII
- Letter XXVIII: An Inundation • Letter XXXIII
- Letter XXVIII: – (Continued) Children’s Games • Letter XXXIII (Continued)
- Letter XXIX: The Tanabata • Letter XXXIV
- Letter XXX: Popular Superstitions • Letter XXXV
- Letter XXXI: Primitive Simplicity • Letter XXXVI
- Letter XXXII: End of the Journey • Letter XXXVII
- Letter XXXIII: The Mission WorK • Letter XXXVIII
- Letter XXXIV: HakodatÉ • Letter XXXIX
- Letter XXXV: A Change of Scenery • Letter XL
- Letter XXXV.—(continued.): A Meeting • Letter XL (continued.)
- Letter XXXVI: Living with the Ainos • Letter XLI
- Letter XXXVI—(Continued.): Aino Hospitality • Letter XLI (Continued.)
- Letter XXXVII: Savage Life • Letter XLII
- Letter XXXVII.—(Continued.): Costume and Customs • Letter XLII (Continued.)
- Letter XXXVII. -(Continued.): Religion of Ainos • Letter XLII (Continued.)
- Letter XXXVIII: A Tipsy Scene • Letter XLIII
- Letter XXXIX: Visit to a Volcano • Letter XLIV
- Letter XXXIX. — (Continued.): A Wet Trip • Letter XLIV (Continued.)
- Letter XL: A Surprise • Letter XLV
- Letter XL.—(Continued.): Solitude • Letter XLV (Continued.)
- Letter XLI: The Missing Link • Letter XLVI
- Letter XLII: Compliments • Letter XLVIII
- Letter XLIII: A Cyclone • Letter XLIX
- Letter XLIV: Cremation • Letter LIX
- Index
- Mr. Murray's General List of Works
Summary
Form and Colour—A Windy Capital—Eccentricities in House Roofs.
HAKODATE, YEZO, August 13, 1878.
AFTER a tremendous bluster for two days the weather has become beautifully fine, and I find the climate here more invigorating than that of the main island. It is Japan, but yet there is a difference somehow. When the mists lift they reveal not mountains smothered in greenery, but naked peaks, volcanoes only recently burnt out, with the red ash flaming under the noonday sun, and passing through shades of pink into violet at sundown. Strips of sand border the bay, ranges of hills, with here and there a patch of pine or scrub, fade into the far-off blue, and the great cloud shadows lie upon their scored sides in indigo and purple. Blue as the Adriatic are the waters of the land-locked bay, and the snowy sails of pale junks look whiter than snow against its intense azure. The abruptness of the double peaks behind the town is softened by a belt of cryptomeria, the sandy strip which connects the headland with the mainland heightens the general resemblance of the contour of the ground to Gibraltar; but while one dreams of the western world a kuruma passes one at a trot, temple drums are beaten in a manner which does not recall “the roll of the British drum,” a Buddhist funeral passes down the street, or a man-cart pulled and pushed by four yellowskinned, little-clothed mannikins, creaks by, with the monotonous grunt of Ha huida
A single look at Hakodaté itself makes one feel that it is Japan all over. The streets are very wide and clean, but the houses are mean and low. The city looks as if it had just recovered from a conflagration. The houses are nothing but tinder. The grand tile roofs of some other cities are not to be seen. There is not an element of permanence in the wide and windy streets. It is an increasing and busy place; it lies for two miles along the shore, and has climbed the hill till it can go no higher; but still houses and people look poor. It has a skeleton aspect too, which is partially due to the number of permanent “clothes-horses” on the roofs. Stones, however, are its prominent feature.
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- Unbeaten Tracks in JapanRevisiting Isabella Bird, pp. 212 - 213Publisher: Amsterdam University PressPrint publication year: 2018